In the vast and aromatic world of coffee, certain names dominate every café menu and grocery shelf—Arabica and Robusta, the two titans of the global coffee trade. Yet, beyond these familiar varieties lies a lesser-known gem: Excelsa. Mysterious, complex, and often misunderstood, Excelsa coffee carries a unique character that bridges the gap between the robust bitterness of Robusta and the nuanced acidity of Arabica. Though it represents less than 2% of the world’s coffee production, Excelsa’s revival in specialty coffee circles has sparked renewed interest among connoisseurs and roasters eager to explore its distinctive flavor and cultural history.
A Bean of Distinction
Excelsa coffee, scientifically classified as Coffea excelsa or, in modern taxonomy, Coffea liberica var. dewevrei, originates primarily from Central and West Africa. While its taxonomical classification has shifted over the years—at times considered its own species and at other times a variety of Liberica—its flavor profile and growth characteristics set it apart from both.
The Excelsa tree thrives in hot, dry climates at medium altitudes, typically between 1,000 and 1,300 meters above sea level. It is a hardy plant, capable of withstanding drought and disease better than Arabica. However, it is notoriously difficult to cultivate and harvest due to its towering height—some trees can grow over 20 feet tall. This makes manual picking labor-intensive, a factor that has contributed to its scarcity in modern coffee production.
Despite the challenges, farmers who persist with Excelsa cultivation understand its unique charm. The bean’s rarity, combined with its unconventional flavor notes, has made it a sought-after variety in artisanal and experimental coffee markets.
A Symphony of Flavors
The defining allure of Excelsa lies in its unpredictable flavor complexity. When roasted, the beans produce a profile that defies simple categorization. It combines the tart, fruity brightness of light-roasted Arabica with the deep, smoky body of a dark roast—often in the same cup.
Coffee enthusiasts describe Excelsa’s taste as “dual-layered.” The first sip delivers sharp notes of fruit, such as cherry, tamarind, or even jackfruit, followed by a long, toasty finish with hints of spice, wood, and dark chocolate. This contrast between bright acidity and rich body creates a cup that evolves with every sip. It’s not just coffee; it’s an experience.
Roasters love Excelsa for its ability to add depth to blends. Even in small quantities, it can amplify the aroma, complexity, and lingering aftertaste of other coffees. For this reason, many craft roasters use Excelsa as a “secret ingredient” to elevate their signature blends, adding a mysterious layer of intrigue that customers can’t quite identify.
A History of Rediscovery
Excelsa’s story mirrors that of a forgotten treasure rediscovered after centuries of neglect. The variety was first documented in 1903 in the Lake Chad region of Central Africa. During the early 20th century, it spread to Southeast Asia—particularly the Philippines, Vietnam, and parts of Indonesia—where it adapted well to local climates.
However, as global coffee production industrialized, Excelsa fell out of favor. Its towering growth pattern and lower yield made it commercially unviable compared to the easier-to-manage Arabica and Robusta varieties. By the mid-1900s, it was largely forgotten except in small farming communities.
In the Philippines, however, Excelsa endured—often grown alongside Liberica and collectively referred to as Barako coffee. There, it became a cultural symbol of resilience and independence, a beverage associated with the country’s rural roots and bold national identity. Local coffee drinkers cherished its distinctive tang and strength, considering it a source of pride in a market dominated by imported beans.
In recent years, specialty coffee roasters and researchers have begun to take another look at Excelsa. As climate change alters coffee-growing regions, varieties that are drought-resistant and pest-tolerant—like Excelsa—are gaining attention. Its unique sensory profile and hardiness could make it an important component in the future of sustainable coffee production.
The Science Behind the Bean
From a botanical perspective, Excelsa sits somewhere between Arabica’s smoothness and Robusta’s strength. It possesses a moderate caffeine content—higher than Arabica but lower than Robusta—and a complex set of aromatic compounds that contribute to its multidimensional taste.
One fascinating aspect of Excelsa beans is their chemical diversity. They contain a mix of organic acids and volatile compounds that respond dramatically to roasting conditions. A lighter roast brings out bright fruit and floral notes, while a darker roast emphasizes the bean’s woody, smoky undertones. This flexibility allows skilled roasters to craft entirely different sensory experiences from the same bean, depending on their desired outcome.
Additionally, the larger bean size and dense structure make Excelsa more resistant to over-roasting, allowing for bold experimentation. This scientific versatility is one reason it’s becoming popular in single-origin tastings and coffee competitions, where uniqueness is highly prized.
Cultural Footprints Across the Globe
Although Excelsa is cultivated in several countries, its cultural roots remain strongest in the Philippines and Vietnam. In the Philippines, Excelsa is often blended with Liberica to create the robust, smoky flavor known locally as “Kapeng Barako.” In Batangas and Cavite provinces, this coffee has historical significance, once serving as a key export and local staple before colonial trade patterns shifted toward Arabica.
In Vietnam, Excelsa is sometimes intercropped with Robusta, producing local blends that combine the fruit-forward liveliness of Excelsa with the earthy bitterness of Robusta. These blends are frequently used in the country’s famous iced coffees (cà phê đá), delivering a complex, energizing beverage ideal for tropical climates.
Elsewhere, Excelsa remains a rarity—an exotic find for curious coffee lovers seeking something truly different. Specialty coffee shops in Europe and North America have begun to feature it as part of limited-edition offerings, often highlighting its “rediscovered” nature as a talking point for adventurous customers.
Sustainability and the Future of Excelsa
The resurgence of interest in Excelsa isn’t just about taste—it’s also about sustainability. With climate change threatening traditional Arabica plantations through rising temperatures, erratic rainfall, and pests like the coffee berry borer, resilient varieties such as Excelsa could play a crucial role in safeguarding the future of coffee farming.
Excelsa trees are hardy, capable of thriving in marginal conditions where other coffee species struggle. They require less pesticide use and can survive longer dry seasons. For smallholder farmers in regions vulnerable to climate stress, planting Excelsa offers both economic and ecological advantages.
Organizations working toward biodiversity in coffee agriculture have begun encouraging farmers to reintroduce neglected species like Excelsa and Liberica. Diversifying coffee crops not only protects ecosystems but also expands the sensory landscape of coffee culture, ensuring that future generations can enjoy a wider range of flavors.
Brewing the Perfect Cup
To fully appreciate Excelsa, brewing it correctly is essential. Given its vibrant acidity and rich body, it performs exceptionally well in pour-over and French press methods, which allow its complex notes to unfold gradually. When brewed as a cold brew, Excelsa’s fruity brightness transforms into a refreshing, wine-like sweetness with a subtle cocoa finish.
Experts recommend using a medium roast for balance—a darker roast can mask some of the nuanced fruit flavors, while a lighter roast may produce excessive sharpness. Paired with desserts like chocolate torte or tropical fruit pastries, Excelsa coffee becomes a memorable sensory pairing.
A Bean Worth Rediscovering
Excelsa coffee embodies the beauty of diversity—botanical, cultural, and sensory. It challenges the binary simplicity of the Arabica–Robusta world, offering instead a taste of something mysterious and profound. For coffee drinkers seeking authenticity, complexity, and a connection to forgotten traditions, Excelsa represents more than just a beverage. It’s a story of survival, rediscovery, and the enduring spirit of craftsmanship.
In a world where coffee is increasingly standardized and mechanized, Excelsa reminds us that true flavor often lies off the beaten path. Each cup tells a tale of resilience—from the farmers who tend its towering trees to the roasters who coax out its hidden depth. For those willing to explore beyond the familiar, Excelsa is not just coffee—it’s an adventure in every sip.
